Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Monday, March 21, 2011
(3/13) Hope everyone is dong well. After climbing Mt. Kenya last weekend, I have spent much of this one laying at the pool and eating. I also knocked out Season 1 of Breaking Bad in just a few days and am downloading Season 2 now. Yes, some pretty exciting African adventures...
Mt. Kenya was amazing. I took last Friday off work and drove to the mountain that morning with two other friends. On the way, we picked up our guide and cook in a town at the base called Naro Moru (also the name of the trail we hiked on). We also had three porters who met us at the gate to the park. This was not my decision, but I guess it is standard for these trips, and I insisted on carrying a bulk of my own load, big man that I am.
We drove to the first lodge, Met Station, which sits at 10,000 ft. From there, we just took a short hike before dinner. The meals were also extravagant. The three of us each brought plenty of our own food for snacking, and probably could've done without any of it. They cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner both days, and even tea and biscuits in the afternoon. Dinner both nights was at least 4 courses, pretty tasty and veggie friendly. I don't remember everything that we had, but I am probably the first to return from Mt. Kenya heavier than when I left.
We started hiking Saturday morning and passed through some very diverse ecosystems along the way. Lush bamboo forests near the base eventually turned into jagged rock at the top. It was a somewhat steep climb in the morning, but flattened out as the day went on, and we were at the second camp (Mackinder's Lodge - 14,200 ft) by 3:00pm for high tea (no pun intended!) We had an early dinner were in bed by 7:00pm - we would have to leave at 3:00am the next morning to reach the summit by sunrise.
The early-morning push to Pt. Lenana was a bit challenging. It was straight uphill, freezing cold and pitch black. I was well-prepared for the weather - dressed for skiing and climbing pretty intensely and still couldn't get warm. This was the first and only portion of the trip where I'd say a guide was absolutely necessary. Even with headlamps, we could only see 10 ft in front of you, and there was really no trail to speak of. The stars, though, were unbelievable, and that is as close to them as I have ever been...
---
(3/21) I initially started this entry a week ago and didn't have a chance to finish it up. Anyway, we continued to the peak, Pt. Lenana, in the freezing cold. One of my friends had been saying all along that he was afraid of heights. We didn't take him very seriously, but he was ready to quit when we got to some hairy rock slides near the summit. He was insisting "you guys go on ahead. I'll wait here." I probably should've been more sympathetic, but after the third or fourth time, we were 5 minutes from the top and I said, in so many words, "shut up, you are coming." I knew he would regret it if he gave up, and he was very happy that he didn't.
So we reached the summit at 4,985 meters (16,355 ft), turned around, and, with a few stops along the way, hiked all the way back to where we started. I think it was about 18 kilometers (11 miles), mostly downhill, and my knees and feet were completely shot by the end. We had a quick lunch and drove back to Nairobi...hairy, smelly, and generally disgusting.
Fast forward - I spent this past weekend at Diani Beach, just south of Mombasa (Kenya's second largest city) on the Kenyan coast. I traveled there by my lonesome on an overnight train that left Nairobi Wednesday night and arrived the next morning. My "1st Class" train ride was ok - not quite the luxury that I had envisioned. The $50.00 or so fare included dinner and breakfast, and there were some decent views in the morning, but it wasn't a great night's sleep and the one-hour flight home for the same price was easier.
Mombasa was quite a bit hotter than Nairobi. I had with me a big hiking bag, and was soaking through my shirt within minutes. So after a "tuk-tuk" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto_rickshaw) ride to the ferry to cross the inlet, and a taxi on the other side, I arrived at my hotel. Diani Marine, a really nice B & B 200 yards up off the shore, reminded me a lot of where we used to stay in Akumal, Mexico (though probably much cheaper). The room was really nice and they had beautiful pool/bar area, and a solid diving program. When I arrived, I went straight to the beach, which is a massive stretch of white sand during low tide. During high tide, though, there are some areas where you can't even walk because the water is so high. The tides change every day, so you'll see tourists sleeping on the beach while their belongings are being washed away.
The Indian Ocean is clean and blue, but not so refreshing as the water is almost as hot as the outside temperature. Another annoyance not to be understated is the "Beach Boys". Friends and guidebooks warned me about them, but I didn't realize just how many there were - selling everything from coconuts and crafts to safaris and cannabis. I always tried to keep my headphones on and pretend I couldn't hear them, but it can be overwhelming. They all talk rasta: "one love broda mon", and it seems like they all sell the same crap. Still, I have more respect for them than I do for the peddlers who just ask for money with no services in return: "Where are you from? UK? Germany? You are Dutch? Oh US! Where in US? Ahhh Chicago - my girlfriend, she is in Chicago. Can you help me out with $10 bob broda? I used to have such a hard time turning a blind eye, but Nairobi has hardened me up and I didn't give away a dime.
I went diving Friday morning (after a refresher course in the pool the day before). Also on the the boat was a nice couple from Scotland, and a big group of speedo-d Germans smoking cigarettes. The tide was so low they literally had to push us out to the reef. We did two dives, about an hour each: the first in a spot called "Shark Alley", that didn't live up to its name, and the second in "Baobob". The coral and plant life didn't compare to what I remember in Mexico and Belize, but there were some amazing species of fish, some I've never seen before (ie octopus, giant turtles, eels, sting rays, etc.) It's funny because anywhere you go diving, they always tell you not to touch the coral or disturb the marine life. Meanwhile, our guide was touching everything, turning over rocks and throwing things around to try and stir it up.
The rest of my weekend was uneventful. Aside from one trip to the sacred Kinondo Forest, and a very interesting encounter with some local folk, I spent most of my time at the beach and pool, and even finished the book I've been reading for 3 months. I also cranked through Season 2 of Breaking Bad, and I'm now on the second-to-last episode. I feel guilty downloading the third - I came here planning to enlighten myself with cultural literature and music and such, and end up watching American TV every night. Oh well.
OK this entry has gone on way too long. To sum things up, yesterday, I saw Ft. Jesus and walked around the narrow old Arab streets of Mombasa for a few hours. On my way home from the airport I had some really bad Thai food and watched more BB to top off the weekend.
My pics from Mt. Kenya are on facebook, and I will put up a few from this weekend as well so you can check out my sweet sunburn. I'll try and squeeze in another entry or two before my time here is done.
Jah love, peace ma brodas.
Mt. Kenya was amazing. I took last Friday off work and drove to the mountain that morning with two other friends. On the way, we picked up our guide and cook in a town at the base called Naro Moru (also the name of the trail we hiked on). We also had three porters who met us at the gate to the park. This was not my decision, but I guess it is standard for these trips, and I insisted on carrying a bulk of my own load, big man that I am.
We drove to the first lodge, Met Station, which sits at 10,000 ft. From there, we just took a short hike before dinner. The meals were also extravagant. The three of us each brought plenty of our own food for snacking, and probably could've done without any of it. They cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner both days, and even tea and biscuits in the afternoon. Dinner both nights was at least 4 courses, pretty tasty and veggie friendly. I don't remember everything that we had, but I am probably the first to return from Mt. Kenya heavier than when I left.
We started hiking Saturday morning and passed through some very diverse ecosystems along the way. Lush bamboo forests near the base eventually turned into jagged rock at the top. It was a somewhat steep climb in the morning, but flattened out as the day went on, and we were at the second camp (Mackinder's Lodge - 14,200 ft) by 3:00pm for high tea (no pun intended!) We had an early dinner were in bed by 7:00pm - we would have to leave at 3:00am the next morning to reach the summit by sunrise.
The early-morning push to Pt. Lenana was a bit challenging. It was straight uphill, freezing cold and pitch black. I was well-prepared for the weather - dressed for skiing and climbing pretty intensely and still couldn't get warm. This was the first and only portion of the trip where I'd say a guide was absolutely necessary. Even with headlamps, we could only see 10 ft in front of you, and there was really no trail to speak of. The stars, though, were unbelievable, and that is as close to them as I have ever been...
---
(3/21) I initially started this entry a week ago and didn't have a chance to finish it up. Anyway, we continued to the peak, Pt. Lenana, in the freezing cold. One of my friends had been saying all along that he was afraid of heights. We didn't take him very seriously, but he was ready to quit when we got to some hairy rock slides near the summit. He was insisting "you guys go on ahead. I'll wait here." I probably should've been more sympathetic, but after the third or fourth time, we were 5 minutes from the top and I said, in so many words, "shut up, you are coming." I knew he would regret it if he gave up, and he was very happy that he didn't.
So we reached the summit at 4,985 meters (16,355 ft), turned around, and, with a few stops along the way, hiked all the way back to where we started. I think it was about 18 kilometers (11 miles), mostly downhill, and my knees and feet were completely shot by the end. We had a quick lunch and drove back to Nairobi...hairy, smelly, and generally disgusting.
Fast forward - I spent this past weekend at Diani Beach, just south of Mombasa (Kenya's second largest city) on the Kenyan coast. I traveled there by my lonesome on an overnight train that left Nairobi Wednesday night and arrived the next morning. My "1st Class" train ride was ok - not quite the luxury that I had envisioned. The $50.00 or so fare included dinner and breakfast, and there were some decent views in the morning, but it wasn't a great night's sleep and the one-hour flight home for the same price was easier.
Mombasa was quite a bit hotter than Nairobi. I had with me a big hiking bag, and was soaking through my shirt within minutes. So after a "tuk-tuk" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto_rickshaw) ride to the ferry to cross the inlet, and a taxi on the other side, I arrived at my hotel. Diani Marine, a really nice B & B 200 yards up off the shore, reminded me a lot of where we used to stay in Akumal, Mexico (though probably much cheaper). The room was really nice and they had beautiful pool/bar area, and a solid diving program. When I arrived, I went straight to the beach, which is a massive stretch of white sand during low tide. During high tide, though, there are some areas where you can't even walk because the water is so high. The tides change every day, so you'll see tourists sleeping on the beach while their belongings are being washed away.
The Indian Ocean is clean and blue, but not so refreshing as the water is almost as hot as the outside temperature. Another annoyance not to be understated is the "Beach Boys". Friends and guidebooks warned me about them, but I didn't realize just how many there were - selling everything from coconuts and crafts to safaris and cannabis. I always tried to keep my headphones on and pretend I couldn't hear them, but it can be overwhelming. They all talk rasta: "one love broda mon", and it seems like they all sell the same crap. Still, I have more respect for them than I do for the peddlers who just ask for money with no services in return: "Where are you from? UK? Germany? You are Dutch? Oh US! Where in US? Ahhh Chicago - my girlfriend, she is in Chicago. Can you help me out with $10 bob broda? I used to have such a hard time turning a blind eye, but Nairobi has hardened me up and I didn't give away a dime.
I went diving Friday morning (after a refresher course in the pool the day before). Also on the the boat was a nice couple from Scotland, and a big group of speedo-d Germans smoking cigarettes. The tide was so low they literally had to push us out to the reef. We did two dives, about an hour each: the first in a spot called "Shark Alley", that didn't live up to its name, and the second in "Baobob". The coral and plant life didn't compare to what I remember in Mexico and Belize, but there were some amazing species of fish, some I've never seen before (ie octopus, giant turtles, eels, sting rays, etc.) It's funny because anywhere you go diving, they always tell you not to touch the coral or disturb the marine life. Meanwhile, our guide was touching everything, turning over rocks and throwing things around to try and stir it up.
The rest of my weekend was uneventful. Aside from one trip to the sacred Kinondo Forest, and a very interesting encounter with some local folk, I spent most of my time at the beach and pool, and even finished the book I've been reading for 3 months. I also cranked through Season 2 of Breaking Bad, and I'm now on the second-to-last episode. I feel guilty downloading the third - I came here planning to enlighten myself with cultural literature and music and such, and end up watching American TV every night. Oh well.
OK this entry has gone on way too long. To sum things up, yesterday, I saw Ft. Jesus and walked around the narrow old Arab streets of Mombasa for a few hours. On my way home from the airport I had some really bad Thai food and watched more BB to top off the weekend.
My pics from Mt. Kenya are on facebook, and I will put up a few from this weekend as well so you can check out my sweet sunburn. I'll try and squeeze in another entry or two before my time here is done.
Jah love, peace ma brodas.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Here is an update on the CNN story I sent out last week:
I really hope that something comes of this. Mathari happens to be the slum that I visited and they have plenty of fish to fry...I would not be surprised if this issue doesn't top the list.
I am leaving for Mt. Kenya tomorrow morning and returning Sunday night. Definitely not my decision, but apparently we have 3 porters carrying our food, clothing and supplies, so it shouldn't be too strenuous. I should have some good stories and pictures for you when I get back.
Have a great weekend.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Shabbat Shalom,
I know it has been a while and I wish I had some new and exciting adventures to tell you about, but things have slowed down here a bit. As you can see from the pictures I posted, last weekend I took a trip to Lake Naivasha. Along with a few other gringos and a Kenyan friend, we drove a couple hours from Nairobi to a campsite on the lake called Fisherman's Lodge. The campgrounds were really beautiful and I felt like I was back in the Northwoods. That afternoon, after a short bike ride, we took a boat to Crescent Island where we walked amongst wildebeests, zebras and giraffes, and actually had to run away from some buffalo. During the boat ride back from the island, the hippos started to pop their heads up out of the water. They like to come onto land at night, and the campsite was surrounded by an electric fence to keep them away.
My friend Steffi woke me up early the next morning because our tent was surrounded by birds and she was afraid to get out to use the bathroom. I ignored her at first, but eventually got up to see these disgusting pterodactyls eating the bones leftover from someone's BBQ the night before. We somehow managed to sustain a flat tire at some point during the night while the car was parked. More about that later...
We spent the day at Hell's Gate National Park - a very popular tourist destination as much of the Lion King was filmed there. We rented bikes at the entrance and rode through the park. Unfortunately still no lion sightings, but there were plenty of warthogs (and more zebras and giraffes which aren't so thrilling anymore). We also watched a committee of 20+ vultures (http://www.hintsandthings.co.uk/kennel/collectives.htm) getting nasty over lunch.
We met some German business men who were working at IBM in Nairobi and joined them on a hike through the Gorge. As you can see in the pictures below, I did a little rock climbing and there were some hot springs and waterfalls and hot spring waterfalls. The Gorge was the highlight of the weekend.
The drive home was the lowlight of the weekend. My Kenyan friend Dan had the punctured tire repaired, but for whatever reason he didn't change it with the spare. We made it all of 5km before we were sitting on the side of the road. Dan's jack didn't work properly, so we had to borrow one from a passerby. To make a long story short, this was the first of 3 flat tires on the way home. It had gotten very dark outside for the last one, and we were stuck roadside for an hour in a city called Banana where you don't want to be stuck. We had to hire one taxi to take the tire in for repairs and another to drive us around while we waited (so we wouldn't get offed by some locals on the side of the road). Whoever brings AAA here, or even tow trucks for that matter, will be a hero. I'm normally very even-tempered and patient in these situations, but it was getting late on Sunday night, I was hungry, and none of us had showered in two days (at least five for the cab driver). Luckily, the cabbie returned with the tire patched up, and I swear he changed it like he was on Jimmie Johnson's pit crew. I can laugh about the whole thing now, but it wasn't funny at the time.
This weekend I tired to get out of my comfort zone a little bit and took a matatu into downtown Nairobi by my lonesome. The City Centre gets a bad rap, and I hadn't really spent any time there, but thought I should take a day there before I leave. I took a long walk, checked out some landmarks, and went to Uhuru Park overlooking the city. It was a pleasant day to myself and I managed to resist the peddlers at every corner, offering safaris and such.
Next weekend I am finally going to be climbing Mt. Kenya with a couple friends. I have been training diligently at the gym so I should be able to keep up; however, I am nervous because temperatures get below freezing near the summit and I didn't bring my winter jacket.
BTW some stomach issues I've been having inspired me to try and maintain a vegan diet for the past few days. I am almost positive I have broken it on a few occasions, albeit unintentionally, but I have a newfound respect for Oprah, Ian Keiser, and anyone else who can eat this way and survive. I'll let you know how long I make it - pretty sure it won't fly on Mt. Kenya.
Ok now, buh bye then.
Friday, February 25, 2011
CNN Article
This was a featured article I came upon on CNN.com. Sorry I hate to share this stuff because it's heartbreaking to read, but alas:
http://edition.cnn.com/2011/WORLD/africa/02/25/kenya.forgotten.health/index.html?hpt=C2
http://edition.cnn.com/2011/WORLD/africa/02/25/kenya.forgotten.health/index.html?hpt=C2
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Hell's Gate Pictures
Here are some pictures from a German guy, Axel, who we met last weekend hiking at Hell's Gate National Park. I took pictures as well, but his came out much better:
I will write more about the trip in my next entry. Hope everyone is having a nice week.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Thirsty Thursday OMG!!!
Bon-jore-no (some of you may know the reference),
Not that I do a very good job of hiding it, but some fellow expats got a hold of my blog so I'm going to have to be more careful and not talk about how awful my "friend" Abida is anymore...
:) OMG I'm totes JK!!! Obv!!!;)
So I must've angered someone bragging about the perfect weather because the rainy season seems to have come early this year. It normally comes in late March, but we have gotten a little bit almost every day this week. It's still always warm here, so it's not terribly unpleasant. The bigger problem is the frequent power outages and the drainage systems are almost non-existent, so it gets pretty messy. My once shiny-black Cole Hahns are now just a dusty African memory. So poetic.
Last weekend was very busy. Friday night we went to a restaurant called the Phoenician - a unique combo of Sushi and Lebanese. I asked the waiter about the Spicy Tuna Roll, and he mentioned something about "Scoop Tuna". Ha I'm not sure if that meant Starkist or something, but I stayed away from it. The sushi was actually quite good. Afterwards we went to a couple clubs: Mercury and Gypsy's, where you have to keep an eye on your drink and hand on your wallet at all times. It's like walking through a minefield and some of these gals aren't so easy to pick out. I stuck with my group, though, and managed to get out unscathed.
Saturday, with some friends from Deutschland, I visited the Ngong Hills outside of Nairobi. We did a short hike with some Maasai tribesman, and then visited a well-known recycled glass factory. We didn't get to see the glass blowing, but it was an interesting place built almost entirely from gladd. Dinner that night was a nice home-cooked meal at my old guesthouse. I had a bowl of Beet Borscht, one of my favorite classic yid-dishes, accompanied by some perfectly spiced Okra - both were absolutely stunning. Later on, I had another exciting night out at a UNEP house party - one of the biggest I've been to in a while. My friend said that these UN parties occur every weekend, which is nice, but that I will start to notice the same people over and over again...
Finally, Sunday I took a matatu with my friend, Steffi, to meet her friend, Dan, who works at an orphanage in Mathare (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mathare) - one of the biggest slums in the world. We had hoped to walk around the slum a bit, but then the rain started as soon as we arrived. We could see and smell the conditions from a safe distance, though, and it is shocking. Dan invited me to return to volunteer there one day. I normally do not have a stomach for these things, but I think it is important that I understand.
On a lighter note, there has been a French Film Festival at the mall this week. The movies are free, which is very rare, so I'm taking full advantage. Tuesday I saw "London River" and last night I did a double feature "Welcome" and "Tournee (On Tour)". I highly recommend first two. A couple things of note: 1) last night marked the first time I've ever been to a movie alone - we had a lovely time and 2) before the previews here, they project the Kenyan flag and everyone stands for the National Anthem.
This weekend I will be traveling to Lake Naivasha. We will camp out and do some hiking and biking in Hell's Gate National Park. I will post some pictures from the past week and report back on my trip. Miss you all.
Until next time, mahalo.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Howdy
A monkey just walked into my office and reminded me that I am probably due for a new blog entry, so without further ado...
Friday, a group of about 15 of us went out for an Ethiopian feast. If you've never had Ethiopian food, or have had a bad introduction to it (Mom & Linda), give it a shot. About half of the group was vegetarian (I've met more veggies here in a month than ever before), and there was so much variety for everyone. We sat outside at a big round table by the fire and had a nice time. The highlight of the meal was a side-dish called Shiro (http://www.foodnetwork.co.uk/recipes/ethiopian-spicy-chickpeas-stew-yeshinbra-shiro-wot-ru296355.html). It seems like a pretty simple combo of chickpea powder and spices, and I would've happily eaten it for my entire meal.
On Saturday, I was invited to join my friend Thomas and 6 of his friends (all French and German) on a trip to Castle Lodge (http://www.castleforestlodge.com/) on Mt. Kenya. After some heavy deliberation about not knowing anyone and being the only Americannes, I thankfully decided to go. We took two cars and it was only a 2.5 hour drive from Nairobi through some very interesting towns. Castle Lodge is a cluster of small cabins that were cut out of the dense forests near the base of the mountain. We saw the room where Queen Elizabeth II once stayed as a teenager, and much of the furniture had been preserved. The grounds of the "resort" reminded me of a cheese farm that Eric brought us to in Acul, Guatemala some years ago. Unfortunately they didn't make their own cheese, but there were cows, goats and horses grazing, and the staff cooked all our meals and built our fire. We played some games and watch a movie (A Single Man), and it made for a relaxing night away from the bustle of Nairobi. Sunday morning after breakfast, we took a guided hike about 9km up Mt. Kenya. The area is known for its wild elephants, and there were apparently some fatal attacks last year. We didn't get to see any elephants, but had to constantly avoid getting stuck in their leftovers. We hiked through some very diverse forestry (rain forest, pine, bamboo, etc.) and up to a beautiful waterfall. After lunch, we took off, hoping to be in Nairobi before dark.
On Friday I will be moving again. Two German girls I know have an open room in their guesthouse. I have really grown to like where I am now, but this new place is too convenient to pass up, and almost half of what I was paying at my studio ($300.00/month includes laundry and cleaning). It is on the same street as Gigiri Homestead, where I spent my first week - 20 minutes from work/gym, 15 from the grocery store. My major holdup is that there is only one bathroom, and I like to take my time in there (in the shower, I mean). I have also only ever lived with guys before, so I will have to learn to keep the seat down, which is easier said than done. Both of them are very cool, though, and it will be nice to have some company.
This weekend I will doing a day-hike in the Ngong Hills, just outside of the city. I'm also trying to arrange a tour in the slums, but haven't found many takers.
You may have noticed Amazon and Google advertisements on my blog from. That is because I decided to sell out and "monetized" it. So far I have earned a total of $1.93, so thanks for the support and tell your friends!
xoxoxo
Monkey in the Office (and you thought I was kidding...)
Friday, a group of about 15 of us went out for an Ethiopian feast. If you've never had Ethiopian food, or have had a bad introduction to it (Mom & Linda), give it a shot. About half of the group was vegetarian (I've met more veggies here in a month than ever before), and there was so much variety for everyone. We sat outside at a big round table by the fire and had a nice time. The highlight of the meal was a side-dish called Shiro (http://www.foodnetwork.co.uk/recipes/ethiopian-spicy-chickpeas-stew-yeshinbra-shiro-wot-ru296355.html). It seems like a pretty simple combo of chickpea powder and spices, and I would've happily eaten it for my entire meal.
On Saturday, I was invited to join my friend Thomas and 6 of his friends (all French and German) on a trip to Castle Lodge (http://www.castleforestlodge.com/) on Mt. Kenya. After some heavy deliberation about not knowing anyone and being the only Americannes, I thankfully decided to go. We took two cars and it was only a 2.5 hour drive from Nairobi through some very interesting towns. Castle Lodge is a cluster of small cabins that were cut out of the dense forests near the base of the mountain. We saw the room where Queen Elizabeth II once stayed as a teenager, and much of the furniture had been preserved. The grounds of the "resort" reminded me of a cheese farm that Eric brought us to in Acul, Guatemala some years ago. Unfortunately they didn't make their own cheese, but there were cows, goats and horses grazing, and the staff cooked all our meals and built our fire. We played some games and watch a movie (A Single Man), and it made for a relaxing night away from the bustle of Nairobi. Sunday morning after breakfast, we took a guided hike about 9km up Mt. Kenya. The area is known for its wild elephants, and there were apparently some fatal attacks last year. We didn't get to see any elephants, but had to constantly avoid getting stuck in their leftovers. We hiked through some very diverse forestry (rain forest, pine, bamboo, etc.) and up to a beautiful waterfall. After lunch, we took off, hoping to be in Nairobi before dark.
On Friday I will be moving again. Two German girls I know have an open room in their guesthouse. I have really grown to like where I am now, but this new place is too convenient to pass up, and almost half of what I was paying at my studio ($300.00/month includes laundry and cleaning). It is on the same street as Gigiri Homestead, where I spent my first week - 20 minutes from work/gym, 15 from the grocery store. My major holdup is that there is only one bathroom, and I like to take my time in there (in the shower, I mean). I have also only ever lived with guys before, so I will have to learn to keep the seat down, which is easier said than done. Both of them are very cool, though, and it will be nice to have some company.
This weekend I will doing a day-hike in the Ngong Hills, just outside of the city. I'm also trying to arrange a tour in the slums, but haven't found many takers.
You may have noticed Amazon and Google advertisements on my blog from. That is because I decided to sell out and "monetized" it. So far I have earned a total of $1.93, so thanks for the support and tell your friends!
xoxoxo
Monkey in the Office (and you thought I was kidding...)
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Friday, February 4, 2011
Millennium Village Visit
Hello hello,
I hope everyone made it through the week safely - I wish I could've been home to witness the history. I think the last snow day I had was in 8th grade, and I clearly remember it being an awesome day.
So this week brought my much anticipated visit to the very first Millennium Village of Sauri. The taxi picked me up for the airport Wednesday at 05:00 for my 07:00 flight. Domestic flights here are quite a bit easier than they are at home: security checks your bags in the main entrance when you first arrive (which makes more sense when you think about it). I checked in and I was at the gate within 3 minutes. With my supervisor Ros, I flew into Kisumu - the 3rd largest city in Kenya on the banks of Lake Victoria. After checking into the hotel, we arrived at the MVP office in Kisumu. Apparently, Sauri has a constant flow of press and journalists coming in and out, so we had to wait a good hour before our counterparts were free to meet with us. I only mention that it took an hour because waiting is something I have found to be a common occurrence here. Last week, at a meeting with the Co-Operative College of Kenya, (whose acronym makes for a good laugh) we waited for 25 minutes or so for their representatives to meet with us. That is fine, but I just found it odd because they were the ones trying to "sell" us. Apparently that is completely acceptable behavior, though.
After a brief meeting, we cramped in a Rav 4 (pictures below) and drove 30 minutes North, over the equator, and up into the hills of Sauri (Sauri is really just the name of one village inside a cluster of ten or so others) for our meeting with the Yala Dairy Cooperative Committee. The meeting was very long and slow and I definitely wasn't the only one nodding off. Below are some pictures of the Cooperative, the facilities, and the committee members who I met with. I tried to be as subtle as possible taking snapshots with my phone, so hopefully I captured the essence of the meeting for you.
We then had lunch at the MVP Field Office. The big loaf you see in the picture below is called Ugali (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ugali). It is maize meal, textured similar to polenta, eaten by hand, and often shaped into a spoon to scoop up other foods with. No silverware and no napkins and it was a damn good lunch.
For the next hour we drove around looking at potential collection centers for the dairy products. One of my jobs will be to establish the criteria for selection of these centers. The sites are all in different districts and I guess the politics are pretty messy.
It is hard for me to say what kind of progress has been made in Sauri as I never saw the village before the MVP's "intervention". Driving around, though, we passed by some of the schools and resource centers that were built by the program over the past 5 years. I also saw a lot of children leaving school, people herding cattle, and small "businesses". In a place like this that counts for something.
It rained and hailed while we drove back down to Kisumu, and I have no idea how the driver could see the road but we made it back. I met Clare from Leeds, England for dinner at the hotel. She is also here until April, working in the MVP Health Dept, and we discussed the hardships of being Mzungu in Kenya. I may have already mentioned that I am hoping to collaborate with her on a supply chain project for health supplies.
Only one more thing of note: after dinner, I returned to my hotel room and the door was open. I had left my bag, with my passport, in there and my heart dropped for a minute. Luckily, everything was intact, but hot damn!
Tonight a group of 10 of us are going for Ethiopian fare at a place called Habesha. Yet again, I will be the only American - something I never thought possible, but has largely been the case here. I don't know if/how I will watch the Super Bowl on Sunday, but I'm not too broken up by it. Also, some of you have expressed worry about my ascending Mt. Kenya alone. I have found at least one other climber to join me so fret no more. His name is Thomas, a lovely young man from Marseilles. We should be going sometime in the next few weeks. Until next time, I bid you adieu.
*UPDATE*
Pictures are not loading properly. I will try to get them on here tonight, otherwise they should be on fbook.
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Hey Now
I know it's been several days since my last entry, but internet is spotty at my place and things have been pretty quiet since the safari. To keep things interesting, I am planning some trips for myself: next weekend, I am considering a climb up Mt. Kenya. It is the second highest peak in Africa (after Kili) and only about a 3 hour drive from here Nairobi. There are 3 routes to choose from and they range from 4-7 days and differ in level of difficulty. I will have to speak with my supervisor at work (who encouraged me to visit Mt. Kenya) before deciding which route to climb. My guide book recommends taking a day or two of rest at certain points on the mountain to get acclimated to the altitude. I have never had any issues with altitude sickness, though, and may be able to expedite that.
Ideally, I would like to find a group to join me for the climb and divvy up the cost, but I'm not sure that any of the friends I have made here would be up for that type of adventure. If that's the case, I would hope to find a group when I get there, or just do it solo with a guide.
Thursday I had a small South African wine tasting at the UN Rec Center. There is a full gym there and a beautiful pool, and I found out that I am eligible to join for a very reasonable cost. It is right next to my office so I might actually use it...
The UN Complex is giant and beautiful. I will post some pictures.
I am finally going to the Millennium Village Sauri this week, and am very much looking forward to it. A driver is picking me up at 05:00 Wednesday morning for the flight to Kisumu airport. In Sauri, I will see how I can help out with the dairy cooperative - hopefully that doesn't involve milking a cow or sampling any fresh product (BTW they drink almost exclusively whole milk here with breakfast and in coffee, so be thankful for your Grande Soy Lattes). I also am being introduced to Claire, a community health worker from the UK, for collaboration another project. When we return Thursday, we go directly from the airport to the office to debrief the boss-man. I will surely take pictures and debrief you as well.
I have really come to appreciate technology and some of the luxuries that I take for granted at home. I've been without TV and internet for a week and it hasn't been easy (to make up for lost time I downloaded Season 1 of "Walking Dead", which I have heard good things about). My iPod has been absolutely crucial for the hour-long walk to and from work. After some heavy deliberation, I also brought with me some iPod speakers from home. The housekeepers and maintenance man had never seen/heard anything like it. I played some Marley for them while they cleaned and it almost brought me to tears.
I am writing this from the Village Market and have to start walking home before dark. I really appreciate the nice e-mails and comments I've gotten from some of you who have enjoyed reading.
Sawa sawa, kwaheri for now.
Ideally, I would like to find a group to join me for the climb and divvy up the cost, but I'm not sure that any of the friends I have made here would be up for that type of adventure. If that's the case, I would hope to find a group when I get there, or just do it solo with a guide.
Thursday I had a small South African wine tasting at the UN Rec Center. There is a full gym there and a beautiful pool, and I found out that I am eligible to join for a very reasonable cost. It is right next to my office so I might actually use it...
The UN Complex is giant and beautiful. I will post some pictures.
I am finally going to the Millennium Village Sauri this week, and am very much looking forward to it. A driver is picking me up at 05:00 Wednesday morning for the flight to Kisumu airport. In Sauri, I will see how I can help out with the dairy cooperative - hopefully that doesn't involve milking a cow or sampling any fresh product (BTW they drink almost exclusively whole milk here with breakfast and in coffee, so be thankful for your Grande Soy Lattes). I also am being introduced to Claire, a community health worker from the UK, for collaboration another project. When we return Thursday, we go directly from the airport to the office to debrief the boss-man. I will surely take pictures and debrief you as well.
I have really come to appreciate technology and some of the luxuries that I take for granted at home. I've been without TV and internet for a week and it hasn't been easy (to make up for lost time I downloaded Season 1 of "Walking Dead", which I have heard good things about). My iPod has been absolutely crucial for the hour-long walk to and from work. After some heavy deliberation, I also brought with me some iPod speakers from home. The housekeepers and maintenance man had never seen/heard anything like it. I played some Marley for them while they cleaned and it almost brought me to tears.
I am writing this from the Village Market and have to start walking home before dark. I really appreciate the nice e-mails and comments I've gotten from some of you who have enjoyed reading.
Sawa sawa, kwaheri for now.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Safari Pictures
I haven't been able to get my pics up on fbook yet, but my friend took some that actually came out better anyway. Here you go...
http://picasaweb.google.com/
http://picasaweb.google.com/
Monday, January 24, 2011
Safari Sunday
Yesterday, a group of 5 of us went on a mini-safari into Nairobi National Park. The park is just a 30 minute drive from where I am staying, and you can see the skyline from certain points. We had a driver and a van with an open top allowing us to stand up straight and scour the savanna for wildlife. I didn't have high expectations, knowing that the park was so close to the city and not one of the major safari destinations. The scenery turned out to be beautiful, though, and there was plenty of wildlife. We saw of all the following (had to use wiki to make sure I didn't forget anyone):
Sorry for the boring entry. It should be an interesting week so I'll have some more shenanigans for you next time. Adios for now.
African buffalo, baboon, black rhinoceros, zebra, hartebeest, gazelle, eland, impala, giraffe, ostrich, vulture, and waterbuck
Also saw a croc and a couple turtles. The only let down was that we didn't spot and lions or cheetas, but we made out pretty well. I am trying to get some pictures up on facebook so check them out. I would really like to do another longer safari in the country - an area called Masai Mara known for it's big cats. However, Kilimanjaro looms and is my top priority before I leave.
On Friday I had my first night "out" in Nairobi. We ate at a decent Italian restaurant and then were taken to a real Kenyan nightclub downtown called "Dolce". I was little disappointed by the dancing of the locals, but I'm sure the feeling was mutual. Saturday we BBQ'd a goat and had a nice time with it. Below is a picture with Stella, one of the housemaids at my former hotel and a phenomenal cook. I'm the one in the red shirt.
I am ashamed to say that I couldn't watch the Bears game. I can't get a good enough internet connection anywhere and I had a bad feeling about the game anyway. All in all it was good season and I would still love to get rid of the entire front office and Lovie Smith.
Sorry for the boring entry. It should be an interesting week so I'll have some more shenanigans for you next time. Adios for now.
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Settling In
I am happy to report that I have started working, moved into a studio and things are going well. Being as it is my first week at work, I haven't taken on much responsibility yet. However, I will be traveling next week to do some work in one of the remote villages. The project involves the creation of a Co-op for dairy farmers in Sauri, Kenya. I will be doing some supply-chain analysis and it should be quite interesting.
It's seeming like my internship may be about three months. Hopefully my experience here will just be the beginning of a career in this line of development work. In just over week, I have met so many people from so many different places, each of them with their own unique stories. One lady here from the UK on a two year project was saying how that much time in one place is too long. I know I have only been here a week and change, but I can see why many of them have trouble "settling down".
I already shared the link to my new place. I actually decided to scale it up a little bit and take the bigger apartment for a little under $500.00 USD/month. I felt spoiled doing it, but I needed the space for clothes and makeup. It's a bit lonely in my apt, but I have been hanging out with really cool some mosquitoes and geckos and even snuggled with some bed bugs. I was absolutely ecstatic when the pharmacy actually had allergy medication and ear plugs. I do have cable and internet, though, so I can't complain.
I took the "matatu" to work the other day and was 30 minutes late (though I think I was waiting for it in the wrong place). They ghetto-blast old rap music, keep moving while they let people on and off, and when there is traffic, they drive right around it on the "sidewalk"...all of which you would get cited for at home. Apparently you can go anywhere on a matatu for about $0.60.
Still, I decided I would be better off walking to and from work. It is about 3.5 miles each way and takes me just under an hour. It's been 80 and sunny every day I've been here, so I will continue walking for as long as I can.
That is all for now. Go Bears.
Monday, January 17, 2011
Bears
This will be a short entry as I'm watching my recording of the Bears game and have to run to dinner in a few. I had a brief introductory day at work today. It was not easy to go back to work after over a month off, but everything went well and I saw some spider monkeys on my walk to the office. It looks like I will be on a project in which I can visit some of the small villages where the organization is doing developmental work (namely Sauri, Kenya http://www.millenniumvillages.org/aboutmv/mv_sauri.htm). I will have a better idea of my job details in the next week or so.
I also found temporary accommodation. It is on a compound that houses about 15 students/workers/visitors (I met one girl from Kalamazoo and there are some others from Germany) about a 30 minute walk to the Market and about 50 to my office. Against my better judgement, I will likely need to use the "matatus" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Share_taxi#Matatu_.28Kenya.2FUganda.29) for a portion of the trip to work. Matatus make a ride on the CTA seem like flying on a Gulfstream Jet. 15-20 people in a VW size van. I will be paying 32,000.00 KSH/month (about $380.00 USD), and supposedly that includes everything (+ cable, internet and laundry). By far the cheapest I have come upon. http://rosslynstudios.net/ I think they did some photo-shopping - the place is a lot more rugged then the site makes it out to be.
Finally, I saw my first White Sox hat today and I plan to take a safari this weekend. Until next time.
Friday, January 14, 2011
Happy Friday
Hello Friends,
Sorry for the long delay between posts, I had a busy couple of days here exploring...
Since the last time you heard from me, I managed to have fallen in love. Her name is Agnes - she is 20 with a baby girl and works as one of the housekeepers here. We are to be married next month.
No I'm just kidding mom, nothing like that would never happen to one of your sons!
There is a housekeeper named Agnes, though, and she is very sweet. Everyone at the hotel is kind. They are happy to see you and it to be seems genuine, a feeling you don't necessarily get at some hotels back home. The 3 other guests here are all UN as well: Abida, from Islamabad, Tuntu from South Africa, and Paulius, a large jolly bearded man from Lithuania. They have been all over the world and spout off acronyms like you wouldn't believe. I just try and absorb as much as possible hoping that one day I can keep up. Paulius and Tuntu are both having their families move here soon. Abida is on a 4-month assignment and will be staying at the hotel.
Yesterday I went to the Nairobi Hospital to receive my immunizations for Meningitis, Typhoid Fever and Polio. I waited get them done here because I knew I would not be at immediate risk of exposure and I was told that they would be a fraction of a cost that they are in the states (true). I also heard the Nairobi Hospital was one of the best in the region, even the president and prime minister use their facilities. Still, I couldn't shake my pre-conceived notions about getting injections in Africa. No matter how irrational it may be, I considered walking out at the last minute, before I finally manned up. I did, however, pay close attention to the process: the needles and vaccinations were stored in a refrigerator and newly packaged in boxes. I felt like an idiot asking the nurse what country the vaccines were shipped from, like it really made a difference. Either way, everything went well and so far I am in the clear...
After that I had my driver (who waited outside for me) take me on a scenic route through different parts of the city. It is divided into tons of small areas, "estates", which seems to have their own unique characteristics. I read on wiki that the population of Nairobi was around 3 mil, but my driver and another friend both say it's really over 6, with several million living in the slums. He took me through an area called Westlands where there are giant shopping malls and night life. When he finally dropped me off at home, he was very reluctant to accept my $1.00 tip. I probably should've checked ahead time, but apparently tipping is not expected here. It is likely included in most cab fares, meals, etc and really only given out for "exceptional" service.
I also went out looking for an apartment yesterday. I didn't find one and the walk turned out to be like 5 miles longer than I had expected. In several places there are huge groups of 20+ men just sitting along the side of the road as I walk past - I'd be lying if I said I don't get a little nervous. If you haven't stopped reading yet, here is an article I found about being white (or not black) in Kenya. It is pretty corny but may provide some perspective:
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/64547/being_white_in_kenya_pg2.html?cat=16
I start work on Monday and am still trying to figure out how to watch the Bears game. I might have to watch it delayed so please no score updates. Other then that, I am looking forward to my first weekend and nights out in Nairobi. I will surely report back.
By the way, not to rub it in, but I attached a picture the balcony that is attached to my room where I am writing from. It didn't come out great because the big palm tree is in the way and the sun is just so perfectly warm and wonderful. Enjoy.
Sorry for the long delay between posts, I had a busy couple of days here exploring...
Since the last time you heard from me, I managed to have fallen in love. Her name is Agnes - she is 20 with a baby girl and works as one of the housekeepers here. We are to be married next month.
No I'm just kidding mom, nothing like that would never happen to one of your sons!
There is a housekeeper named Agnes, though, and she is very sweet. Everyone at the hotel is kind. They are happy to see you and it to be seems genuine, a feeling you don't necessarily get at some hotels back home. The 3 other guests here are all UN as well: Abida, from Islamabad, Tuntu from South Africa, and Paulius, a large jolly bearded man from Lithuania. They have been all over the world and spout off acronyms like you wouldn't believe. I just try and absorb as much as possible hoping that one day I can keep up. Paulius and Tuntu are both having their families move here soon. Abida is on a 4-month assignment and will be staying at the hotel.
Yesterday I went to the Nairobi Hospital to receive my immunizations for Meningitis, Typhoid Fever and Polio. I waited get them done here because I knew I would not be at immediate risk of exposure and I was told that they would be a fraction of a cost that they are in the states (true). I also heard the Nairobi Hospital was one of the best in the region, even the president and prime minister use their facilities. Still, I couldn't shake my pre-conceived notions about getting injections in Africa. No matter how irrational it may be, I considered walking out at the last minute, before I finally manned up. I did, however, pay close attention to the process: the needles and vaccinations were stored in a refrigerator and newly packaged in boxes. I felt like an idiot asking the nurse what country the vaccines were shipped from, like it really made a difference. Either way, everything went well and so far I am in the clear...
After that I had my driver (who waited outside for me) take me on a scenic route through different parts of the city. It is divided into tons of small areas, "estates", which seems to have their own unique characteristics. I read on wiki that the population of Nairobi was around 3 mil, but my driver and another friend both say it's really over 6, with several million living in the slums. He took me through an area called Westlands where there are giant shopping malls and night life. When he finally dropped me off at home, he was very reluctant to accept my $1.00 tip. I probably should've checked ahead time, but apparently tipping is not expected here. It is likely included in most cab fares, meals, etc and really only given out for "exceptional" service.
I also went out looking for an apartment yesterday. I didn't find one and the walk turned out to be like 5 miles longer than I had expected. In several places there are huge groups of 20+ men just sitting along the side of the road as I walk past - I'd be lying if I said I don't get a little nervous. If you haven't stopped reading yet, here is an article I found about being white (or not black) in Kenya. It is pretty corny but may provide some perspective:
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/64547/being_white_in_kenya_pg2.html?cat=16
I start work on Monday and am still trying to figure out how to watch the Bears game. I might have to watch it delayed so please no score updates. Other then that, I am looking forward to my first weekend and nights out in Nairobi. I will surely report back.
By the way, not to rub it in, but I attached a picture the balcony that is attached to my room where I am writing from. It didn't come out great because the big palm tree is in the way and the sun is just so perfectly warm and wonderful. Enjoy.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Day 1
Hi hey hello.
Not only is this Day 1 of my time in Africa, but this is also Day 1 of me giving into the pressures of social networking, modern-day communication, and my mother, and writing my first blog. I'll try not to make it as cheesy as the title might indicate, but if it is going in that direction please let me know. Also, if it seems like I have deliberated over every word and item of punctuation, it's because I have and I can't help it.
I got into Nairobi late last night after an easy trip from Chicago through Amsterdam. I was a bit nervous coming here, so I watched a couple movies and had a couple beverages on the plane to make those feelings disappear. (BTW, check out Un Prophete http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Prophet - one of the best movies of the year...think Shawshank meets Lock Stock meets Goodfellas prison scene with Uncle Pauly slicing the garlic so thin it would liquify in the pan with just a little oil.) My fears were put to rest when I got off the plane and my bags and driver, Aaron, were waiting. For an extra $3,000 Kenyan Shillings, Aaron gave me a late-night tour of Nairobi's City Center, and some priceless advice (don't take your iPhone out of your pocket and stay away from the "night girls").
We arrived at my hotel shortly thereafter: a 4-room B & B that mothers only dream about. The hotel is situated in Gigiri, a safe neighborhood just a short walk from the UN Compound where I'll be working and surrounded Embassies from several other countries. The grounds of the hotel are lush and beautiful and they offer free wifi so I'm in no rush to leave. My only major hold up - I'm not sure if I can put the T.P. in the toilet or if it has to go in the garbage (as I've been told) because the flush is too weak, and I'm too embarrassed to ask. It's a lose lose situation any way you look at it. Other then that, I'm happy to be here and looking forward to exploring the city. I am going to take a nap now under my lovely white mosquito net. Thank you for reading.
We arrived at my hotel shortly thereafter: a 4-room B & B that mothers only dream about. The hotel is situated in Gigiri, a safe neighborhood just a short walk from the UN Compound where I'll be working and surrounded Embassies from several other countries. The grounds of the hotel are lush and beautiful and they offer free wifi so I'm in no rush to leave. My only major hold up - I'm not sure if I can put the T.P. in the toilet or if it has to go in the garbage (as I've been told) because the flush is too weak, and I'm too embarrassed to ask. It's a lose lose situation any way you look at it. Other then that, I'm happy to be here and looking forward to exploring the city. I am going to take a nap now under my lovely white mosquito net. Thank you for reading.
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