Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Monday, March 21, 2011
(3/13) Hope everyone is dong well. After climbing Mt. Kenya last weekend, I have spent much of this one laying at the pool and eating. I also knocked out Season 1 of Breaking Bad in just a few days and am downloading Season 2 now. Yes, some pretty exciting African adventures...
Mt. Kenya was amazing. I took last Friday off work and drove to the mountain that morning with two other friends. On the way, we picked up our guide and cook in a town at the base called Naro Moru (also the name of the trail we hiked on). We also had three porters who met us at the gate to the park. This was not my decision, but I guess it is standard for these trips, and I insisted on carrying a bulk of my own load, big man that I am.
We drove to the first lodge, Met Station, which sits at 10,000 ft. From there, we just took a short hike before dinner. The meals were also extravagant. The three of us each brought plenty of our own food for snacking, and probably could've done without any of it. They cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner both days, and even tea and biscuits in the afternoon. Dinner both nights was at least 4 courses, pretty tasty and veggie friendly. I don't remember everything that we had, but I am probably the first to return from Mt. Kenya heavier than when I left.
We started hiking Saturday morning and passed through some very diverse ecosystems along the way. Lush bamboo forests near the base eventually turned into jagged rock at the top. It was a somewhat steep climb in the morning, but flattened out as the day went on, and we were at the second camp (Mackinder's Lodge - 14,200 ft) by 3:00pm for high tea (no pun intended!) We had an early dinner were in bed by 7:00pm - we would have to leave at 3:00am the next morning to reach the summit by sunrise.
The early-morning push to Pt. Lenana was a bit challenging. It was straight uphill, freezing cold and pitch black. I was well-prepared for the weather - dressed for skiing and climbing pretty intensely and still couldn't get warm. This was the first and only portion of the trip where I'd say a guide was absolutely necessary. Even with headlamps, we could only see 10 ft in front of you, and there was really no trail to speak of. The stars, though, were unbelievable, and that is as close to them as I have ever been...
---
(3/21) I initially started this entry a week ago and didn't have a chance to finish it up. Anyway, we continued to the peak, Pt. Lenana, in the freezing cold. One of my friends had been saying all along that he was afraid of heights. We didn't take him very seriously, but he was ready to quit when we got to some hairy rock slides near the summit. He was insisting "you guys go on ahead. I'll wait here." I probably should've been more sympathetic, but after the third or fourth time, we were 5 minutes from the top and I said, in so many words, "shut up, you are coming." I knew he would regret it if he gave up, and he was very happy that he didn't.
So we reached the summit at 4,985 meters (16,355 ft), turned around, and, with a few stops along the way, hiked all the way back to where we started. I think it was about 18 kilometers (11 miles), mostly downhill, and my knees and feet were completely shot by the end. We had a quick lunch and drove back to Nairobi...hairy, smelly, and generally disgusting.
Fast forward - I spent this past weekend at Diani Beach, just south of Mombasa (Kenya's second largest city) on the Kenyan coast. I traveled there by my lonesome on an overnight train that left Nairobi Wednesday night and arrived the next morning. My "1st Class" train ride was ok - not quite the luxury that I had envisioned. The $50.00 or so fare included dinner and breakfast, and there were some decent views in the morning, but it wasn't a great night's sleep and the one-hour flight home for the same price was easier.
Mombasa was quite a bit hotter than Nairobi. I had with me a big hiking bag, and was soaking through my shirt within minutes. So after a "tuk-tuk" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto_rickshaw) ride to the ferry to cross the inlet, and a taxi on the other side, I arrived at my hotel. Diani Marine, a really nice B & B 200 yards up off the shore, reminded me a lot of where we used to stay in Akumal, Mexico (though probably much cheaper). The room was really nice and they had beautiful pool/bar area, and a solid diving program. When I arrived, I went straight to the beach, which is a massive stretch of white sand during low tide. During high tide, though, there are some areas where you can't even walk because the water is so high. The tides change every day, so you'll see tourists sleeping on the beach while their belongings are being washed away.
The Indian Ocean is clean and blue, but not so refreshing as the water is almost as hot as the outside temperature. Another annoyance not to be understated is the "Beach Boys". Friends and guidebooks warned me about them, but I didn't realize just how many there were - selling everything from coconuts and crafts to safaris and cannabis. I always tried to keep my headphones on and pretend I couldn't hear them, but it can be overwhelming. They all talk rasta: "one love broda mon", and it seems like they all sell the same crap. Still, I have more respect for them than I do for the peddlers who just ask for money with no services in return: "Where are you from? UK? Germany? You are Dutch? Oh US! Where in US? Ahhh Chicago - my girlfriend, she is in Chicago. Can you help me out with $10 bob broda? I used to have such a hard time turning a blind eye, but Nairobi has hardened me up and I didn't give away a dime.
I went diving Friday morning (after a refresher course in the pool the day before). Also on the the boat was a nice couple from Scotland, and a big group of speedo-d Germans smoking cigarettes. The tide was so low they literally had to push us out to the reef. We did two dives, about an hour each: the first in a spot called "Shark Alley", that didn't live up to its name, and the second in "Baobob". The coral and plant life didn't compare to what I remember in Mexico and Belize, but there were some amazing species of fish, some I've never seen before (ie octopus, giant turtles, eels, sting rays, etc.) It's funny because anywhere you go diving, they always tell you not to touch the coral or disturb the marine life. Meanwhile, our guide was touching everything, turning over rocks and throwing things around to try and stir it up.
The rest of my weekend was uneventful. Aside from one trip to the sacred Kinondo Forest, and a very interesting encounter with some local folk, I spent most of my time at the beach and pool, and even finished the book I've been reading for 3 months. I also cranked through Season 2 of Breaking Bad, and I'm now on the second-to-last episode. I feel guilty downloading the third - I came here planning to enlighten myself with cultural literature and music and such, and end up watching American TV every night. Oh well.
OK this entry has gone on way too long. To sum things up, yesterday, I saw Ft. Jesus and walked around the narrow old Arab streets of Mombasa for a few hours. On my way home from the airport I had some really bad Thai food and watched more BB to top off the weekend.
My pics from Mt. Kenya are on facebook, and I will put up a few from this weekend as well so you can check out my sweet sunburn. I'll try and squeeze in another entry or two before my time here is done.
Jah love, peace ma brodas.
Mt. Kenya was amazing. I took last Friday off work and drove to the mountain that morning with two other friends. On the way, we picked up our guide and cook in a town at the base called Naro Moru (also the name of the trail we hiked on). We also had three porters who met us at the gate to the park. This was not my decision, but I guess it is standard for these trips, and I insisted on carrying a bulk of my own load, big man that I am.
We drove to the first lodge, Met Station, which sits at 10,000 ft. From there, we just took a short hike before dinner. The meals were also extravagant. The three of us each brought plenty of our own food for snacking, and probably could've done without any of it. They cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner both days, and even tea and biscuits in the afternoon. Dinner both nights was at least 4 courses, pretty tasty and veggie friendly. I don't remember everything that we had, but I am probably the first to return from Mt. Kenya heavier than when I left.
We started hiking Saturday morning and passed through some very diverse ecosystems along the way. Lush bamboo forests near the base eventually turned into jagged rock at the top. It was a somewhat steep climb in the morning, but flattened out as the day went on, and we were at the second camp (Mackinder's Lodge - 14,200 ft) by 3:00pm for high tea (no pun intended!) We had an early dinner were in bed by 7:00pm - we would have to leave at 3:00am the next morning to reach the summit by sunrise.
The early-morning push to Pt. Lenana was a bit challenging. It was straight uphill, freezing cold and pitch black. I was well-prepared for the weather - dressed for skiing and climbing pretty intensely and still couldn't get warm. This was the first and only portion of the trip where I'd say a guide was absolutely necessary. Even with headlamps, we could only see 10 ft in front of you, and there was really no trail to speak of. The stars, though, were unbelievable, and that is as close to them as I have ever been...
---
(3/21) I initially started this entry a week ago and didn't have a chance to finish it up. Anyway, we continued to the peak, Pt. Lenana, in the freezing cold. One of my friends had been saying all along that he was afraid of heights. We didn't take him very seriously, but he was ready to quit when we got to some hairy rock slides near the summit. He was insisting "you guys go on ahead. I'll wait here." I probably should've been more sympathetic, but after the third or fourth time, we were 5 minutes from the top and I said, in so many words, "shut up, you are coming." I knew he would regret it if he gave up, and he was very happy that he didn't.
So we reached the summit at 4,985 meters (16,355 ft), turned around, and, with a few stops along the way, hiked all the way back to where we started. I think it was about 18 kilometers (11 miles), mostly downhill, and my knees and feet were completely shot by the end. We had a quick lunch and drove back to Nairobi...hairy, smelly, and generally disgusting.
Fast forward - I spent this past weekend at Diani Beach, just south of Mombasa (Kenya's second largest city) on the Kenyan coast. I traveled there by my lonesome on an overnight train that left Nairobi Wednesday night and arrived the next morning. My "1st Class" train ride was ok - not quite the luxury that I had envisioned. The $50.00 or so fare included dinner and breakfast, and there were some decent views in the morning, but it wasn't a great night's sleep and the one-hour flight home for the same price was easier.
Mombasa was quite a bit hotter than Nairobi. I had with me a big hiking bag, and was soaking through my shirt within minutes. So after a "tuk-tuk" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto_rickshaw) ride to the ferry to cross the inlet, and a taxi on the other side, I arrived at my hotel. Diani Marine, a really nice B & B 200 yards up off the shore, reminded me a lot of where we used to stay in Akumal, Mexico (though probably much cheaper). The room was really nice and they had beautiful pool/bar area, and a solid diving program. When I arrived, I went straight to the beach, which is a massive stretch of white sand during low tide. During high tide, though, there are some areas where you can't even walk because the water is so high. The tides change every day, so you'll see tourists sleeping on the beach while their belongings are being washed away.
The Indian Ocean is clean and blue, but not so refreshing as the water is almost as hot as the outside temperature. Another annoyance not to be understated is the "Beach Boys". Friends and guidebooks warned me about them, but I didn't realize just how many there were - selling everything from coconuts and crafts to safaris and cannabis. I always tried to keep my headphones on and pretend I couldn't hear them, but it can be overwhelming. They all talk rasta: "one love broda mon", and it seems like they all sell the same crap. Still, I have more respect for them than I do for the peddlers who just ask for money with no services in return: "Where are you from? UK? Germany? You are Dutch? Oh US! Where in US? Ahhh Chicago - my girlfriend, she is in Chicago. Can you help me out with $10 bob broda? I used to have such a hard time turning a blind eye, but Nairobi has hardened me up and I didn't give away a dime.
I went diving Friday morning (after a refresher course in the pool the day before). Also on the the boat was a nice couple from Scotland, and a big group of speedo-d Germans smoking cigarettes. The tide was so low they literally had to push us out to the reef. We did two dives, about an hour each: the first in a spot called "Shark Alley", that didn't live up to its name, and the second in "Baobob". The coral and plant life didn't compare to what I remember in Mexico and Belize, but there were some amazing species of fish, some I've never seen before (ie octopus, giant turtles, eels, sting rays, etc.) It's funny because anywhere you go diving, they always tell you not to touch the coral or disturb the marine life. Meanwhile, our guide was touching everything, turning over rocks and throwing things around to try and stir it up.
The rest of my weekend was uneventful. Aside from one trip to the sacred Kinondo Forest, and a very interesting encounter with some local folk, I spent most of my time at the beach and pool, and even finished the book I've been reading for 3 months. I also cranked through Season 2 of Breaking Bad, and I'm now on the second-to-last episode. I feel guilty downloading the third - I came here planning to enlighten myself with cultural literature and music and such, and end up watching American TV every night. Oh well.
OK this entry has gone on way too long. To sum things up, yesterday, I saw Ft. Jesus and walked around the narrow old Arab streets of Mombasa for a few hours. On my way home from the airport I had some really bad Thai food and watched more BB to top off the weekend.
My pics from Mt. Kenya are on facebook, and I will put up a few from this weekend as well so you can check out my sweet sunburn. I'll try and squeeze in another entry or two before my time here is done.
Jah love, peace ma brodas.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Here is an update on the CNN story I sent out last week:
I really hope that something comes of this. Mathari happens to be the slum that I visited and they have plenty of fish to fry...I would not be surprised if this issue doesn't top the list.
I am leaving for Mt. Kenya tomorrow morning and returning Sunday night. Definitely not my decision, but apparently we have 3 porters carrying our food, clothing and supplies, so it shouldn't be too strenuous. I should have some good stories and pictures for you when I get back.
Have a great weekend.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Shabbat Shalom,
I know it has been a while and I wish I had some new and exciting adventures to tell you about, but things have slowed down here a bit. As you can see from the pictures I posted, last weekend I took a trip to Lake Naivasha. Along with a few other gringos and a Kenyan friend, we drove a couple hours from Nairobi to a campsite on the lake called Fisherman's Lodge. The campgrounds were really beautiful and I felt like I was back in the Northwoods. That afternoon, after a short bike ride, we took a boat to Crescent Island where we walked amongst wildebeests, zebras and giraffes, and actually had to run away from some buffalo. During the boat ride back from the island, the hippos started to pop their heads up out of the water. They like to come onto land at night, and the campsite was surrounded by an electric fence to keep them away.
My friend Steffi woke me up early the next morning because our tent was surrounded by birds and she was afraid to get out to use the bathroom. I ignored her at first, but eventually got up to see these disgusting pterodactyls eating the bones leftover from someone's BBQ the night before. We somehow managed to sustain a flat tire at some point during the night while the car was parked. More about that later...
We spent the day at Hell's Gate National Park - a very popular tourist destination as much of the Lion King was filmed there. We rented bikes at the entrance and rode through the park. Unfortunately still no lion sightings, but there were plenty of warthogs (and more zebras and giraffes which aren't so thrilling anymore). We also watched a committee of 20+ vultures (http://www.hintsandthings.co.uk/kennel/collectives.htm) getting nasty over lunch.
We met some German business men who were working at IBM in Nairobi and joined them on a hike through the Gorge. As you can see in the pictures below, I did a little rock climbing and there were some hot springs and waterfalls and hot spring waterfalls. The Gorge was the highlight of the weekend.
The drive home was the lowlight of the weekend. My Kenyan friend Dan had the punctured tire repaired, but for whatever reason he didn't change it with the spare. We made it all of 5km before we were sitting on the side of the road. Dan's jack didn't work properly, so we had to borrow one from a passerby. To make a long story short, this was the first of 3 flat tires on the way home. It had gotten very dark outside for the last one, and we were stuck roadside for an hour in a city called Banana where you don't want to be stuck. We had to hire one taxi to take the tire in for repairs and another to drive us around while we waited (so we wouldn't get offed by some locals on the side of the road). Whoever brings AAA here, or even tow trucks for that matter, will be a hero. I'm normally very even-tempered and patient in these situations, but it was getting late on Sunday night, I was hungry, and none of us had showered in two days (at least five for the cab driver). Luckily, the cabbie returned with the tire patched up, and I swear he changed it like he was on Jimmie Johnson's pit crew. I can laugh about the whole thing now, but it wasn't funny at the time.
This weekend I tired to get out of my comfort zone a little bit and took a matatu into downtown Nairobi by my lonesome. The City Centre gets a bad rap, and I hadn't really spent any time there, but thought I should take a day there before I leave. I took a long walk, checked out some landmarks, and went to Uhuru Park overlooking the city. It was a pleasant day to myself and I managed to resist the peddlers at every corner, offering safaris and such.
Next weekend I am finally going to be climbing Mt. Kenya with a couple friends. I have been training diligently at the gym so I should be able to keep up; however, I am nervous because temperatures get below freezing near the summit and I didn't bring my winter jacket.
BTW some stomach issues I've been having inspired me to try and maintain a vegan diet for the past few days. I am almost positive I have broken it on a few occasions, albeit unintentionally, but I have a newfound respect for Oprah, Ian Keiser, and anyone else who can eat this way and survive. I'll let you know how long I make it - pretty sure it won't fly on Mt. Kenya.
Ok now, buh bye then.
Friday, February 25, 2011
CNN Article
This was a featured article I came upon on CNN.com. Sorry I hate to share this stuff because it's heartbreaking to read, but alas:
http://edition.cnn.com/2011/WORLD/africa/02/25/kenya.forgotten.health/index.html?hpt=C2
http://edition.cnn.com/2011/WORLD/africa/02/25/kenya.forgotten.health/index.html?hpt=C2
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Hell's Gate Pictures
Here are some pictures from a German guy, Axel, who we met last weekend hiking at Hell's Gate National Park. I took pictures as well, but his came out much better:
I will write more about the trip in my next entry. Hope everyone is having a nice week.
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